"The Dusky Track? You want to do the Dusky Track?"

so went the initial response I received when I first inquired about the Dusky Track at the Te Anau DOC (Dept. of Conservation) Office. Little old DOC ladies seemed to pop up everywhere... from below the counters, out of doorways, behind file cabinets. All them echoed "Dusky Track? Dusky Track?!? Did he say... the Dusky Track?" Infamous for a poorly maintained, remote, rough, muddy, flood-prone track... I think the DOC employees had been trained to steer as many people away from the Dusky Track as they could. I'd wanted to do it since the day I read the trail description in my trusty copy of Tramping in New Zealand.

Chapter 1: Taking Flight
"Well, not enough time to do the 9-day-circuit from Lake Huroko to Supper Cove to Lake Manapouri... we'd better just take the float plane into Supper Cove and make a day trip up to the Pleasant Range"

And so it was that I rode shotgun in my first ever float plane.

Chapter 2: Quick Introduction
"Hi, I'm the Dusky Track. Yeah, I've had an unprecedented string of 5 sunny days, but that doesn't mean you'll be spared of knee deep mud, slippery root-entangled rock, and an overgrown sparsely marked trail."

And so it went that we misjudged how much longer it takes to cover 16km on the Dusky... and ended up hiking 2 hours in the dark on our first day.

Chapter 3: Company
"Achtung Martin... Achtung," says the diminutive, fuzzy headed Montanan (Collin) as he prods his hiking partner with his trekking pole.
"Nnnghuuu..." groans the 7ft German as his energetic friend tries to motivate him off his arse.

This odd-couple of 20-something free-spirits were the only souls that we encountered during our 5 days on the Dusky. The "we" consisted of Clumsy Clyde (me), Fumbly Franny (edith), and Bob & Kathryn... ultraliters from Delaware. Edith befriended Bob & Kathryn in the Dart Valley.. I befriend them on the Dusky.

Chapter 4: Da Mud... Da Mud!
Why was I never happier that I had included gators in my pack?

Boot Suckin' Mud - kind of a generic term for any mud that makes a "shhh-rup" noise as you strain your knee and ankle joint to free your boot.

Stealth Mud - Looks like a harmless foot placement, and then "thunk"... you're knee deep and laughing.

Fibrous Mud - Usually found above the tree-line where meadows are water-logged and trampled. A high content of grassy organic matter makes it look safe to tread on, but you'll soon find yourself knee deep in Stealth Mud's close relative.

Oh Man! That Could've Been Us Mud - Usually only ankle deep, but a few feet away - only a foot below - you'll find a river that could have you wading in waist deep mud if rains suddenly blew in.

Sandy Mud - Looks like Boot Suckin' Mud, but surprises you with sure footing... must be the high sand content?

Oily Mud - Looks like a polluted oil slick. Franny explains that it's actually the beginning of the chemical processes that breakdown the organic matter to eventually form petroleum reserves... something to do with Carbon-chains or isotopes or somethin'. Gives me a headache to think about... thought this was vacation.

Chapter 5: The Fine Line
Another first! 3-wire-bridges. I think I counted 12 of them. If you take your time, it's not too tricky... that is, unless you encounter a clever bunch of sandflies who realize your slow shuffle and occupied hands make you an easy meal. Only the females bite... just a side note... but isn't it interesting.

Chapter 6: Tree-Line
"There's something about going over a pass... you see it up ahead, a dip in the skyline that signifies a crossing, an achievement, with nothing but expansive blue sky beyond."

I love being above the tree-line...

Chapter 7: "If I had a boat..."
Finish it with me now - "...I'd go out on the ocean, and if I had a pony, I'd ride him on my boat."

A dream ending to a brilliant hike: we caught a ferry across Lake Manapouri and back to civilization. Fly in, boat out? How cool is that?

PICSSSSS:
Bob, Kathryn, Edith and I boarding the float plane on Lake Manapouri.
Sittin' Shotgun...
You can't see it in the pic, but the clouds were literally flowing over the mountains like they were water pouring over river rock...
Bob crossing one of our many 3-wire-bridges
The tarns of the Pleasant Range... one of my favorite places in NZ. I'm determined to get back here.

Descending from the Pleasant Range
Edith's hero shot... looking toward Dusky Sound.
Mossy Goodness.
View from Central Pass back toward Dusky Sound.
Happy, smelly and hungry at the end of 5 amazing days.
Cruising across Lake Manapouri.